Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner were among the models who wore uniforms resembling those of Princess Diana, French traditions, and innovative men’s clothing.
Simon Porte Jacquemus has turned his eponymous brand, Jacquemus, into a renowned fashion house with highly inspirational and star-studded runway shows. Following the Spring/Summer 2023 campaign shot in Rio de Janeiro, the straw-covered SS23 runway and iconic performances like the Fall 2022 show on a salt marsh and the Summer 2021 Wheatfield, it’s now time for another groundbreaking introduction. As anticipated, Jacquemus chose the gardens of the Palace of Versailles, once the residence of King Louis XIV, just outside Paris, to unveil his Fall 2023 collection titled “LE CHOUCHOU.”
With Jacquemus’s remarkable growth in the fashion industry, many celebrities have taken notice. Naturally, the event kicked off with the presence of Victoria and David Beckham, Manu Rios, Monica Bellucci, Eva Longoria, Emily Ratajkowski, Claire Foy, and dozens of other famous individuals. The star-studded attendance not only speaks to the brand’s cult following but also reflects the significance of this show, which takes place at a location few have access to, apart from Dior and Chanel, who have also used the Palace of Versailles as a backdrop for their campaigns.
Prior to the show, Simon Porte Jacquemus spoke with WWD, explaining the importance of the venue to him: “I drew inspiration from this historic location in the design process to a point where it led me to discover new creative possibilities, different from my previous shows but still very Jacquemus. I am truly honored and proud to showcase there, as an independent fashion house. It will be a very special moment for Jacquemus.”
And indeed, it was very Jacquemus and incredibly special. Guests sat on rowboats as they awaited the start of the show, and once it commenced, it exuded pure French elegance. Supermodels including Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Bellucci’s daughter, Deva Cassel, graced the runway, working alongside familiar models and muses of the brand, embodying the sophistication of the setting.
The designs exuded a sense of French luxury and regality, featuring translucent white lace lingerie, cotton and silk fabrics crafted into bustier and peplum details on voluminous short dresses, intricate bralette tops, and more elaborate nightwear, reminiscent of Gigi Hadid’s uniform or the square-toed ballet flats.
They carried new handbags, distinguished by gold ring handles and simple leather bodies, a departure from the playful accessories and iconic statement bags that helped establish the brand from the start. Instead, the accessories were more refined, complementing the simplicity of “LE CHOUCHOU.”
However, it wasn’t just about the jewelry—the necklace that Kendall Jenner wore clearly referenced Princess Diana’s iconic choker. Diana’s was a previously owned diamond and sapphire brooch that she transformed into a seven-strand pearl choker, worn alongside the “Revenge Dress” in a symbolic fashion. Jenner’s outfit also had equally impressive proportions, combining a top and underwear concept focused on a thick fabric, then amplified with red and once again with silver sequins.
But the impressiveness wasn’t limited to the women’s attire, as Simon Porte Jacquemus masterfully showcased his secrets with men’s clothing. It was sensual and campy in every way, but far more intricate than previous attempts. Here, sophistication took center stage: peplum details adorned the waistline of voluminous white wide-leg pants, embellished with a small white belt and worn with a cricket player’s polo shirt, and that bulk from earlier was then transformed into an oversized puffer bomber jacket, serving as a statement piece in pure white.
The embellished fringe lines darted left, right, and center on a white wool coat, and once again on the women’s ensemble, which included a stunning yet simple wool coat, before the men’s attire became slightly more experimental. Jacquemus’s next offering was a black vest set, deconstructed with asymmetric puffed sleeves and trousers that revealed a belted waist a few inches below the waistline, while the previously voluminous proportions were softened into a rounded brushed wool coat, almost of a different essence, found in black.
“LE CHOUCHOU” was a cohesive showcase, with diverse men’s outfits ranging from a red off-the-shoulder heart-shaped knit paired with seashell-shaped linen waistband to a white vest completed with precise boxy cuts, and further elevated by a modest white vest and daringly intricate lace technical vest.